From Pizzas to Pesos – A Foodies Guide to Eating in El Chalten
Food, Glorious (and Sometimes Surprising) Food
When we first arrived in El Chalten in 2006, the dining scene was
simple: one restaurant. Return today, and you’re met with a dizzying
array of choices. The catch? The options have become decidedly
"Americanized." The menus are a familiar chorus of pizzas, burgers,
fries, and pasta.
You can, of course, find authentic Argentine gems if you look, hearty
"Locro" stew, simmered with corn, squash, beans, and meat, or the
famously sublime steaks, which are, as expected, completely out of this
world.
But no discussion of Argentine food is complete without mentioning the
humble yet glorious empanada. These perfect baked or fried pastries are
the ultimate staple, and honestly, everybody can find one they love. My
personal favorite is the meat-filled variety, especially the spicy
"carne picante". Of course, plenty of veggie options exist too. They are
cheap, incredibly filling, and easily the best value food you can buy
here.
As mentioned in a previous post, "Happy Hour" is the law of the land
here, often stretching from 2 pm until 8 pm, or even longer. It’s a very
happy hour indeed! However, compared to our adopted home in Andalucia,
eating out is expensive. A basic main course will set you back ARS
25,000-28,000 (about $18-$20), and a pint of beer starts at ARS 8,000
($6), though Happy Hour dutifully halves that price. With deals lasting
most of the day, the biggest challenge is often resisting the temptation
to over-indulge.
The Great Supermarket Safari
So, what do you do when you want to save some cash? You eat in.
This is easier said than done and requires military-level planning,
especially when your kitchen boasts only two working hobs and a kettle.
The supermarkets here are a world away from those in Western Europe.
Stepping into one is like travelling back in time 25 years to my early
days in rural Andalucia. There are three small local shops on the main
drag, Avenida San Martin, and shopping in them is a unique experience.
First, forget trollies or baskets. Your shopping cart might be an old
cardboard box if you're lucky, or you'll be left regretting you didn’t
bring a rucksack. Second, no single store sells everything. After a few
weeks, you learn the drill: Shop A is the toilet roll king, Shop B might
have cereal, and the best broccoli is a trophy find. Fresh vegetables
are a luxury due to the immense resupply distance. We are, after all, at
the bottom of the world.
When a truckload of fresh carrots arrives, I imagine it’s immediately
surrounded by a horde of zombie-like shoppers.
The most surreal moment? Seeing a dog waiting patiently at the meat
counter. We were stunned. But here, nobody bats an eye; the dogs are
quietly tolerated.
You join the queue with your lone banana, carrot, avocado, and prized
piece of broccoli. Each item is conscientiously weighed and handed back
to you—plastic bags are a distant dream.
A Fistful of Surprises: The Checkout Drama
Then comes the payment. Nine years ago, on our last visit, no one
took cards. No one! You needed US dollars, with change given in
Argentine pesos. So, we arrived in 2025 with a "Fistful of Dollars,"
ready for "A Few Dollars More." And what did we find? Everyone now
expects card payments. Doh!
So, at the counter, you must ask: "¿Puedo pagar en dólares?"
Most places will accept them, to be fair, but some won't, so it's best
to check first. You'll be given a less-than-ideal exchange rate and your
change in a collection of the most paltry, worn, and torn-looking pesos
you’ve ever seen.
Culinary Creativity on Two Hobbs
You finally get home with your meagre supplies and face the final
challenge: what to create? With two pans, two hobs, and limited
ingredients, concocting a meal becomes a fun, if not comical, game of
culinary survival.
To be honest, we haven’t done too badly. Even Gordon Ramsay might have a
grudgingly kind word for us. Maybe?
Our greatest edible hits include: Vegetable Stew, Vegetable Pasta, and
Vegetable Chilli. Sensing a common denominator yet?
