The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly of Laguna Torre

Just back from a stunning two-day backpacking trip to Laguna Torre, at
the foot of the mighty Cerro Torre. We're committed to honest travel
tales, the sublime, the frustrating, and the downright ridiculous. So,
here's our warts-and-all report from the trails.

The Good

Let's start with the obvious: the scenery is otherworldly. The jagged
summits of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, the ancient glaciers, the turquoise
lakes, and the wind-sculpted Lenga forests—it's a landscape that defies
hyperbole. On a good day, Patagonia is untouchable.

The D'Agostini campsite is worth every peso of the 20,000 ARS fee. It’s
a haven of organisation with fresh water, a helpful ranger, and the holy
grail of wilderness camping: proper toilets (with paper!). The real
luxury, however, was the wildlife. We were even graced by the presence
of two Torrent Ducks, the world's most dapper web-footed swimmers,
putting on a show in the river just below camp (Kiersten's images to
come!)

Sunrise on Cerro Torre is a spiritual experience, even for the
sleep-deprived. We dragged our tired bodies from our tents at 5:30 am
and made the 20-minute walk to Laguna Torre. Watching the first pink
light hit that granite needle was a reward no amount of sleep could ever
match.