Feathered Findings November 19th, 20th & 21st

Some of my favourite finds, and log, from a 3 day camping trip. 

• Magellanic Woodpecker 
• Crested Caracara 
• Ashy-headed Goose
• Patagonian Sierra Finch 
• Austral Negrito 
• White-browed Ground Tyrant 
• Dark-faced Ground Tyrant 
• Austral Parakeet 
• Buff-winged Cinclodes 

The trip was a flood of memories. We camped at Piedra del Fraile,
the same spot that served as our first night's camp on all five of our
previous icecap expeditions. From there, we set out on a walk towards
the icecap, feeling its familiar, magnetic pull—perhaps from the way the
mountains converge, or something more intangible. This time, however, we
resisted and turned uphill towards our planned destination: the glacial
Laguna Pollone.

Since we weren't heading onto the icecap, I could afford a rare luxury:
carrying the weight of a proper camera and lens. My previous visits to
this area were documented only with a small point-and-shoot, so I was
eager to see what might reveal itself. Sadly no Huemul but with only
around 74ish in the national park I guess you have to be extra lucky to
come across them in this vast landscape. We also didn't see a Puma, not
sure if that's lucky or not, I have mixed feelings about bumping into
this predator. Half of me thinks it would be amazing to see one and the
other half thinks nope I'd rather not see one! There had been one
hanging around Piedra del Fraile for 3 days, a year or so ago, but it
hasn't been back, well not that anyone has seen. You can view the video
here. Thanks to Pedro for allowing us to share it with you.

The hike began under an overcast sky, casting the forest into a deep,
dark shade—a challenging light for photographing birds. Then we heard
it: the unmistakable double-rapid drum of a Magellanic Woodpecker. I
quickly spotted a red-headed male just off the path. He was shrouded in
shadow, but I took a few hopeful shots. Thankfully, he then flew across
the path to a more open area with better light and began searching for
food. We watched him for a while, took our photos and video, and left
him to his work.


As the path drew near the Rio Electrico,
we took a short break at the forest's edge and spotted a lone
Ashy-headed Goose perched atop a boulder. We soon reached the campsite,
pitched our tent, dropped off our heavy gear, and took a short
exploratory walk to scout the route we had planned for the next day.

That next day, we changed our plans. After seeing how steep the initial
route was—and watching younger, fitter hikers struggle—we opted for the
walk to Laguna Pollone instead. The day was perfect: clear blue skies,
not a breath of wind (a true rarity), and wonderfully warm. The lake
itself is a spiritual place, though honestly, this entire area feels
that way.

The birdlife here consists of true specialists, survivors in a land of
crazy weather. (I'm a bit unsure about some of my identifications, so
please let me know if you spot any errors!). Back at the campsite that
afternoon, we relaxed by the river, hoping a Torrent Duck might swim
by—though I'm not sure they frequent this stretch. A pair of Crested
Caracaras provided the entertainment, their antics amusing us as we
enjoyed a beer. Meanwhile, a pair of what I believe were Chilean
Swallows darted around the campsite, seemingly searching for a place to
build a nest.

On the morning of our third day, we said farewell to our wonderful host,
Pedro, and a fellow camper, Jana—yes, we made friends! We headed back
into the forest, retracing our steps towards the Poincenot campsite.
Along the way, we were interrupted by a pair of Austral Parakeets who
squawked loudly, demanding a photo before they would let us pass.
Unfortunately, they were poorly positioned, and the photos didn't make
the cut—please don't tell them if you ever meet!

The day gradually shifted from birding to a focus on flowers and
scenery. Once we joined the popular route to Laguna de los Tres, the
wildlife seemed to have scattered. When we reached a sign stating it was
only 8km back to El Chalten, we made a spontaneous decision: we went for
it. Having been spoiled by the tranquility of the previous days, we
weren't feeling the busy Poincenot campsite, especially on a holiday
weekend.

About two hours from El Chalten, we heard the drumming of a Magellanic
Woodpecker once more. This time, it was a pair. Every other hiker passed
by without a glance. The birds were silhouetted on a dead tree against
the now-cloudy sky, creating a powerful image. Soon, they flew off—they,
too, apparently agreed it was too busy.

We finally arrived back at our apartment after a 21km day. We were
shattered, with sore feet, but our souls were completely full.

You can read
more on Richard's report